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2009 Lafarge Volnay Mitans

Year: 2009
Appellation: Volnay
Country: France
Burghound Rating: 91-94
View from the Cellar: 91+
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John Gilman's View from the Cellar, Nov/Dec 2010.
I have been a big fan of the Mitans bottling at Domaine Lafarge since it was first produced in the 2005 vintage, but the 2009 version was the most closed wine in the cellars at the time of my visit on the first of December. The reticent nose offers up a complex blend of cherries, quince, blood orange, coffee, herb tones, vinesmoke and soil. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very tight, with a chewy personality, a rock solid core of fruit, fine focus and a very long, ripely tannic and youthful finish. Intuitively, one would expect this to eventually outpace the fine Volnay “Premier Cru” bottling, but it will be several years before this blossoms sufficiently to compete with that beautiful wine.   91+ points.

Allen Meadows' Burghound, May 2011.
As is usually the case, this is an exercise in finesse and understatement with a high-toned, cool and pure mineral-infused red pinot fruit nose that slides seamlessly into detailed, harmonious and mouth coating flavors that are very Volnay, all wrapped in a delicate, refined and mineral-driven finish. A classy and age-worthy effort that is decidedly Zen-like.   91-94 points.

 
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