John Gilman's View from the Cellar, Nov/Dec 2010
The 2009 Valmur is one of the undisputed stars in the William Fèvre cellars this
year and is a profound bottle of Chablis grand cru in the making. The brilliant nose offers
up a very Raveneau-like aromatic mix of candied lemon, apple, orange, kaleidoscopic
minerality, spring flowers and a faint whiff of grassiness in the upper register. On the
palate the wine is full-bodied, very, very pure and rock solid at the core, with great,
nascent complexity, racy acidity, laser-like focus and excellent grip on the very, very
long, young and classy finish. A tour de force! 2017-2040+.
95 points
It's arguable that in 2009 that this is the most elegant and refined wine
in the range as the ultra pure and airy white flower, citrus zest, iodine
and oyster shell aromas complement to perfection the extremely fresh and
silkily textured flavors blessed with ample amounts of acid-buffering dry
extract that culminate in an explosive yet harmonious and sophisticated
finale with perhaps a bit less youthful austerity than usual. I very much
like this. Burghound 94 |