|The 2009 Moulin à Vent “les Trois Roches” from Pierre-Marie Chermette is a
superb example of the vintage, but as it has seen a bit of new wood, it really will need a
bit of time in the cellar to fully integrate its wood component and blossom a bit from behind its substantive structural elements. The bouquet is deep, pure and very beautiful,
as it jumps from the glass in a refined blend of cassis, black cherries, graphite, currant
leaf, a great base of soil tones, espresso, smoke and a deft framing of cedary wood. On
the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied and very pure, with fine focus and balance, firm,
ripe tannins and outstanding length and grip on the still very young and currently quite
closed finish. While there is absolutely no issue here with the ultimate balance of this
wine, the wood currently pinches the wine just a touch on the backend and clearly
suggests that some cellaring will be required. 2012-2035.View from the Cellar: 93+.
The Vissoux 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Les Trois Roches – named for the Rochegres, La Rochelle, and Roche Noire sites south of Chenas – smells of fresh dark cherry and purple plum along with charred wood (though not necessarily from barrel). Rather restrained and laid-back on the palate, it nonetheless clings with authority, offering smoky, crushed stone, and saline mineral elements in a dynamic interchange with its concentrated fruit. This is likely to blossom beautifully over the next couple of years and be worth following for 5-7. Wine Advocate: 91.