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This is quite ripe, indeed to the point that there is a mild exoticism to the very fresh, layered and slightly honeyed aromas that precede equally ripe full-bodied flavors that are sleekly muscular, all wrapped in a rich, full and mouth coating finish thanks to the impressive amounts of dry extract. This is a beautifully refined effort that is very Puligny in style. Recommended. Burgnound 93 - Sweet Spot Outstanding!
Producer note: Gérard Boudot candidly calls 2008 a "surprising
vintage. I was
frankly very pessimistic at the beginning of September. We had the
beginning of some botrytis pressure, sugars were low and nothing was
even
close to ripe. Finally, on the 13th the weather cleared up, the north
wind began to blow and maturities exploded. In fact, what is truly
remarkable is that in the space of 10 days, in some parcels we went from
under ripe to mildly over ripe. More broadly, this has become a concern
in Burgundy as to how fast fruit matures and there is just less and less
margin for error. It's gotten to the point where in some vintages if
you
miss by a day you no longer obtain the quality that you thought you
would
have. We began picking on the 23rd and it was necessary to sort very
carefully as there was some botrytis and as I mentioned, in certain
parcels a bit of surmaturité. Potential alcohols were solid at between
12.5 and 13% and there was essentially almost no chaptalization though
quantities were down roughly 20% compared to what we harvested in 2007.
The malos were long and significant as the change in pH was dramatic.
The
post-malo pHs came in between 3.15 and 3.2, which is relatively low
without
being really aggressive. Overall, I like the vintage a lot but in all
honesty, it's much, much better than we had any right to expect."
Last year I reported on the various changes for premature oxidation that
Boudot has instigated and noted that for 2007, he left things basically
as
they have been. At that time, Boudot told me that that he was aiming
for a
level between 38 and 40 ppm of SO2 in 2007 but that he reduced to
between
37 and 38 ppm because he thought that 40 was noticeable. In 2008
however
he told me that he raised it to 40 to 45 ppm and given that the wines
had
just been bottled, it was quite marked. I have not noted the presence
of
sulfur in every tasting note but readers should be aware that for the
next
year or two, they are likely to notice it until it has a chance to
completely integrate.
Note: from a full 1 ha parcel of 40+ year old vines aged in
approximately 1/3 new
oak with a slightly longer élevage than the prior wines
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| Monthly Specials For July |
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