Stephen Tanzer Int'l Wine
Cellar, Jul/Aug 2007
Exotic spice notes complicate the grapefruit
and pineapple fruitiness on the nose; a bit less exuberant today than the
Vaudesir, with hints of menthol and licorice. Then drier and more serious
in the mouth, offering classic flavors of citrus peel, menthol, licorice
and minerals. A very dense, fresh wine with a brisk, palate-staining back
end. The crop level here was a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare, notes
director Stephane Follin-Arbelet, who pointed out that although yields ranged
from 30 to 50 hectoliters across the house's holdings in '06, most of the
cru bottlings come from old vines affected by a good bit of crop-reducing
coulure 92-94 points
Allen Meadows, Burghound October 2007
Here the beautifully expressive nose is even
more elegant but as Valmur almost always is, the aromas are restrained,
cool, refined and practically shout "Chablis" as the saline and oyster shell
notes add real depth to the classic green fruit and floral aromas. As the
low yields would suggest, this is one concentrated wine with an opulent
mouth feel yet no loss of detail on the iodine-infused and austere finish
that seems to go on and on. Terrific and by the standards of this wine,
it should be approachable a year or two sooner than usual. 92-94
points
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