Tasting note: Background notes of wood spice frame the intensely earthy and rather animale nose of mostly red berry fruit aromas that combine with powerful and exceptionally ripe and rich flavors that explode on the mouth coating and hugely long finish. This is not an elegant wine but the sheer depth of extract is incredibly impressive as is the superb phenolic ripeness and there is a velvety natural sweetness that completely buffers the considerable tannic spine. One to buy. Burghound 90-92 From parcels below the Champeaux, Geantet’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin En Champs evinces cranberry, raspberry, licorice and vanilla in the nose. Displaying real depth and grip on the palate, it suggests subtle caramelization of fruit and marrowy low tones, with a creamy texture emerging. Firm but fine tannin does not detract from the exuberance of fresh fruit in the finish even as rich, savory meatiness and hints of caramelized fruit persist as well. Vincent Geantet as usual bottled well before year’s end, and his wines seemed to be having a particularly expressive, fruit-filled day when I tasted. Interestingly, much as he bottles all of his wines together, so, Geantet’s barrel regimen is the same regardless of appellation: one-third each of new, one-year and two-year wood. He prolonged the pre-fermentative maceration to eight days, which seems to have enhanced the brightness of fruit exhibited by these wines. I must say I did not come prepared for quite such an impressive collection as that which Geantet delivered. Parker 90
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