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1998 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses

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Year: 1998 Appellation: Champagne Country: France Champagne Warrior 90-92 points; ChampagneGuide.net 3 out of 3 stars. Pre-Arrival	$159.99
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Peter Liem in ChampagneGuide.net.
The 1998 is one of the finest Clos des Goisses of modern times, ranking alongside the 1995, which has been my personal favorite of the 1990s. “The ’98 is firmer than the ’95,” says Charles Philipponnat. “It’ll have a longer run, I think. But they’re quite close [in quality].” This is already full in fragrance and seductively complex, showing a silky concentration on the palate. Even for a Clos des Goisses this demonstrates a remarkable intensity and dimension of flavor, strongly anchored by the darkly smoky minerality typical of the site. It builds towards a voluminous and terrifically long finish, forceful in its resonance while maintaining an impeccable sense of fineness and poise, profound in its completeness and in its vivid, crystalline purity. Champagne aficionados will no doubt pit this, and any other vintage of the decade, against the 1996—while I think that the 1996 Clos des Goisses is an outstanding wine, I find the 1998 to demonstrate a more complete sense of harmony, better integrating its components. Last tasted: 10/08 3 out of 3 stars.

Brad Baker of Champagne Warrior, June 2011
Following this lead, the palate adds a strong citrus backbone to hard-baked bread flavors. Mineral, orange, and ripe, concentrated peach and pear coalesce around the citrus center as a touch of smoky apricot sneaks in on the finish.

Most striking is its tightly wound and profoundly dark nature. This is almost like a “Goth” version of the tete de cuvée, especially given that the 1998 vintage is more typically known for being fresh, fruity, and open. Over time, as the bottle breathes, it lightens a bit, but this Clos des Goisses demands further cellaring. This is very atypical for the 1998 vintage, but when is Clos des Goisses ever typical? This wine has continued to slowly open and improve since release, and even with its obvious potential, I would not be surprised if I have underestimated this.

(35% Chardonnay, 65% Pinot Noir; Single vineyard in Mareuil-sur-Ay; Steel and oak fermentation & aging; No malolactic fermentation; Disgorged June 2007; 4.5 g/L Dosage; Production of ~ 10,000 bottles;) 90-92 points.