1996 Domaine de la Romanee Conti Grands Echezeaux

(with thanks to Bruce Khouri). Deep ruby. What was once quite aromatically tight and backward has now begun to open to reveal elegant red and black fruit aromas nuanced by ample spice and warm earth nuances that are followed by middle weight, focused and still somewhat reserved flavors that culminate in a firm but not hard finish and while there is noticeable acidity present, it is not in the aggressive fashion that plagues any number of '96s. Over several hours, this becomes superbly elegant and spicy with outstanding precision and detail and it's clear that the extended aeration is the key to really getting all there is out of the '96 GE at this point. This is still on the way up and in good storage, it should live for decades. Moreover, given how many '96s are showing today, this has to rank among the best of the vintage. Multiple, and consistent, notes. Burghound 94